On the road leading to Jaipur we pass fields of bright yellow mustard. Bullock carts are replaced by camel carts. Some camels have intricate designs shaved into their fur, or brightly colored pom poms, streamers or bangles to make them more beautiful than the competition. Ocassionally, desert girls peer from draped headscarves, revealing amazing green or hazel eyes, striking against dark skin. Music and food is distinctly Rajasthani. The region of Rajasthan is certainly crisscrossed by well-trodden tourist trails, and Jaipur is a hub, but look past the flashing signs for “Raja Cyber Cafe” and “Lassi Wallah House” and be handsomely rewarded.
Our Guesthouse, Royal Aashiyana Palace (while neither royal nor palatial) was a picturesque, pink building on a side street not far from the train station. Run by two friendly, knowledgable brothers, one of the best features is its rooftop restaurant. Two chefs cook up some mean local dishes, and thoughtfully build a tableside fire-pit for those chilly January nights. We spent lots of time up there, morning and night, and had some enjoyable, if limited conversations with the cooks.
Everywhere we’ve been in India, food takes forever. I don’t think a meal has ever taken less than about 40 minutes to arrive complete at the table (and dishes never arrive at the same time). This was perplexing at first. Our confusion was compounded when we noticed that every time we ordered, someone would run out and return with a bag or bundle of groceries. We tried asking what was available before ordering next time, just to make things easier, to no avail. Unless it’s seasonal, everything on the menu is always available. The issue is more about power (preventing many items from being stored), tradition (people shop as they need things), space (there is usually one small cooking surface) and waste (there aren’t extra funds for buying things you may not use). Everything is cut and chopped (sometimes even purchased) when an order is placed. We ordered a dish that included peas and cheese one night, peeking into the kitchen to add something to the order, to find one of the guys with a pile of pea pods in front of him, just getting started on shelling. We will surely miss food this fresh once we’re home.
We did hit a few of the tourist spots in Jaipur. Our favorites were the architecturally unique Hawa Mahal, Palace of Winds. Known for its unique shape, use of colored glass and multitude of tiny windows, ladies could stay hidden from the outside world while still being able to look down on the activities of daily life in the streets below. Nearby Jantar Mantar is the largest of Sawai Jai Singh’s observatories, and features some incredible examples of medieval Indian astronomy. Albert Hall is in the middle of Ram Niwas Gardens and holds an interesting collection of arts and crafts in an extremely atmospheric building.
We spent a while around the Water Palace after wandering the markets inside the city walls. The pink walls date back to 1826, when the whole city was painted pink to welcome the Prince of Wales. Even our room at the guesthouse was entirely decked out in little girl birthday cake shades. Our last debate was how to deal with the hassle of getting a rickshaw driver to take us the ten miles or so to the nearby town of Amer to see the Amber Fort, built by several members of the Singh family over they course of two centuries. It was during this debate that we met Raj.
Raj drives an auto-rickshaw. He says he doesn’t rip off tourists, and we believe him. Of course he is trying to earn money, but his philosophy is to focus on earning the intangibles: good conversation, general knowledge, help with English. He tells us he has come to believe that, at least with Western tourists, it makes more sense to agree on a fair price and provide good service, earning a healthy tip at the end, than overcharge from the beginning and start off with bad feelings. We could tell he was a nice kid with an easy nature and good heart. He even stopped to give a 7or 8 year old chai-seller a ride up the hill just to help. He said it made him feel bad to see the kid have to work so hard instead of going to school. We talked to him about his family, his work and his hopes for the future, as well as movies and sports. He is a hockey fan (field hockey is India’s national sport), and was amused to hear about it being played on ice. I’m sure fans at home would love to hear he thought it sounded “romantic!”
On the grounds of the entrance to the Amber Fort, we encountered langur monkeys with black faces, fluffy eyebrows, and incredibly long tails and arms. Lanky limbs facilitate fluid movement. Effortless jumps made it seem there were hidden springs in muscular hind legs. The monkeys didn’t pay any mind to human visitors, and continued their late-afternoon romps uninterrupted. Overly-rambunctious young males were quickly put in their place by clearly battle-scarred, older toughs.
We ended our time in Jaipur with a more optimistic outlook than when we arrived. Part of it can be attributed to settling in; the rest of the credit goes to people like Raj, who show us new perspectives and how to appreciate both what we have and what we are experiencing through travel.
Photos of our visit to Jaipur are available HERE.
TurtlesTravel 