Bangkok Revisited
Returning to Bangkok after a month in Vietnam (and several more in Indonesia, Cambodia and Laos) was a bit of a shock. Everything seemed so modern and cosmopolitan, fashionable and brightly-lit. We spent Christmas eve (thanks to more points) in the Renaissance executive lounge, drinking wine and singing carols with Thai Santa and some pretty elven helpers. Two days later, we were at the airport welcoming Heather’s Dad to the city. It was of course great to see family (the first time since Donny’s Mom visited Phuket in September) and also fun to see the city from a first-time visitor’s perspective. We had left a couple of main tourist sites for his visit, so we were seeing plenty for the first time ourselves too.
We shared two Thai favorites time and time again, good food and conversation. Dad was keen on trying anything new, from street vendor coffee to pork buns in Chinatown to papaya salads and the many flavorful colors of Thai curry. We were more than happy to facilitate. Our Happy New Year dinner at Lek Seafood was so good we went back the next night. The place is small, half-hidden in an alley near the Chong Nonsi train station, not far from the red-light district of Patpong. Favorite dishes included grilled oysters with garlic and butter, grilled squid and oyster “omelette” (a bubbling hotplate of goodness), all perfectly paired with a few fine bottles of Tiger.
For the first few days we stayed just north of the “old” part of town, traveling downriver on the Chao Phraya by boat and taking in the main sightseeing areas of Ko Ratanakosin and Chinatown. Dad was in awe of the vast numbers of vendors everywhere, selling any imaginable item. We had a great walk through the flower and food market near Memorial Bridge on the way to the Royal Palace.
Wat Phra Kaew, which houses the Emerald Buddha (actually jade), is within the same grounds as the palace. The bright oranges, blues, golds and greens of the rooftops and stupas outside are dazzling. We were especially fascinated by the murals on the inside walls of the temple compound, depicting Ramakian (the Thai version of the Indian Ramayana tale). It was exciting to recognize characters and scenes we learned about at Angkor Wat in Cambodia and in Indonesia. The main buildings of the Grand Palace itself are closed to the public, but some of the buildings in the back have exhibits of old weapons and armor. We also got to see the changing of the guard. The best part was the outgoing soldier adjusting the uniform of the soldier coming on duty. Nearby Wat Pho holds the enormous reclining Buddha, over 120 feet long! His sandals alone are amazing, with exquisite mother of pearl inlay.
Kanchanaburi was the destination of a daytrip to visit the war memorials, museums and ride the Death Railway. The limestone mountains, waterfalls and green rice fields are a soothing break from Bangkok’s chaos. The book and movie Bridge over the River Kwai made this location of the WWII prisoner of war camp famous. POWs, along with thousands of conscripted laborers from Burma and Malaysia built a 415 kilometer section of railway the Japanese hoped would connect Burma to Bangkok for military transport. The men worked under horrible conditions, and an estimated 100,000 or more died in the construction process. The bridge was destroyed by the Allies in1945.
The following day we moved from our hostel to a modern, boutique hotel in the “new” city, dominated by skyscrapers, malls, and a slick public transport system. It’s easier to get around this part of the city by train, and we made good use of that option. A highlight was Jim Thompson’s House, former residence of the famous American businessman who made Thailand his home and brought the beauty of Thai silk to the world market. The traditional architecture and antiques in the compound are beautiful. We especially liked the chamber pot for the girls in the shape of a frog!
One whole afternoon was dedicated to exploring massive Chatuchak market, north of the city. Here, there are thousands and thousands of stalls, in different zones, selling everything from clothes and handicrafts to pets and incense. We stopped frequently to refresh with bubble tea, grass jelly, fried noodles, springrolls, fresh juices or an Ovaltine shake!
On New Year’s Day we were lucky to be able to see hundreds of local families and individuals visiting Erawan Shrine, dedicated to Brahma, the Hindu god of creation. In an atmosphere of quiet thanks-giving in gold, yellow and orange, traditional musicians and colorful dancers performed their rituals while the faithful lit candles, received blessings, gave thanks for prayers answered and sought good fortune for the coming year. We sent up our own little prayers, and considered it a fortuitous start to 2012.
Photos can be seen HERE.
City of the Soaring Dragon
Hanoi is frantic and frenetic, unnerving and uncompromising, but it grows on you quickly. Hassles and scams can surely be found here, but so can unexpected kindness and unbridled energy. Hanoi gets under your skin, and it doesn’t take long to lose track of time once you start wandering. Even crossing the street can be an adventure, but once you get the hang of it (slow and confident, allowing vehicles to flow around you, and no sudden movements), the city is pretty easy to navigate, and very rewarding to get to know. Air quality can be an issue, so it makes some sense to invest in one of those cute masks everyone wears when on their motorbikes. They really make a difference. (Mine is pink, with the little lamb from Chinese kids TV.) There are a number of parks to get out of the traffic once you get out of the center of town.
Apart from traffic, the other obstacles to walking in Hanoi are all on the sidewalk. The city wasn’t intended for so many vehicles, so motorbike parking is directly in front of (almost inside sometimes) each tiny shop. In front of the cafés, people sit on little plastic chairs or stools, sipping tea or strong, sweet coffee. There are usually cups of sunflower seeds, with the shells deposited directly on the ground. If not at a cafe, draft beer is an equally popular Hanoi option. Stepping over and around people, plates and merchandise is another process of getting comfortable in Hanoi.
The action in this city seems to happen at ground level and it usually involves eating. People is Vietnam seem to always be snacking. Fresh meals and snacks in an endless variety are always available. And you don’t even have to go looking for it. Ladies parade by with mobile kitchens on the ends of a long pole over their shoulders or on bicycle with loaded baskets. From within they can whip up a hot and hearty snack in a moment, complete with a real plate or dish. Others have donuts, fritters, buns, puffed rice, roasted sweet potatoes or nuts, popcorn, sweets… Larger, more stationary carts have porridge or the ever present bahn mi (baguette sandwiches). One more step up to an actual storefront, and the options multiply again. Of course, we can’t abandon our search for the perfect bowl of pho. So this is how we spent our time in Hanoi, strolling and snacking.
Right in the middle of the capital is the Hoan Kiem Lake (Lake of Returned Sword–after a legend of a king winning a battle with a certain sword, which was then returned to a magical turtle in the lake). They say turtles are still spotted from time to time in the lake, though we didn’t spot any. The lake is a great place for a walk, especially in the layer afternoon when the setting sun casts a reddish glow on the water and over the temple and its bridge. We stayed to the southwest of the lake, near the big cathedral, which had its Nativity scene set up for the Christmas holiday. The hotels were all playing Christmas tunes, and shops were decorated with Christmas trees and snowmen.
The best place for wandering is the Old Quarter, consisting of 36 old streets, some still used for commerce just the way they have been for 1000 years (though the area became really heavily populated from the 15th century or so). Similar to the guild concept, people with the same skills congregated in one area upon moving into town so that they could share resources. These groups sold their wares from the same area, and the streets were named after the items sold: Pho Cha Ca (roasted fish), Pho Hang Ma (paper goods), Pho Hang Bun (noodles), Pho Hang Bac (silver), and so on. Although some of the streets no longer sell the products after which they were named, many still do, like Hang Buom, filled with bamboo! The quantity merchandise spilling out of every shop and cart, and loaded on the back of motorbikes and into baskets is mind-numbing.
When sensory overload kicks in, an austere, sparkling-clean, not-to-be-missed monument is Ho Chi Minh’s marble and granite mausoleum. Though he wanted to be cremated, the government chose instead to keep his body until he could witness the reunification of the country and so future generations could come and see him and pay their respects. Also in the area are a former residence, the famous One-Pillar Pagoda, the Presidential Palace and Ba Dinh Square. Ho Chi Minh Museum opened in 1990, and houses many documents and some rather difficult to follow symbolic displays.
The Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu – Quốc Tử Giám) has been known for 1000 years as a celebrated spot of Confucian learning and scholarship. From the “Horse Dismounting Stelae” (instructing all to get off their steed before entering), to the Doctors’ Stelae, honoring those 1304 scholars who passed exams between 1442 and 1779, through ancient gates and five courtyards surrounding the lake, you can feel the history of those who spent years studying here. Today it is treasured both for its status as a Confucian shrine and site of the first university in Vietnam. It also seems like a popular place for young Vietnamese to put on traditional dress and pose for a photo shoot! One afternoon we found ourselves in front of the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre and ended up with front row seats. This art form developed in the rice growing villages in northern Vietnam where outdoor theater was held right in the flooded fields. The modern-day puppeteers are truly talented, as wooden people, spirits, animals and fish dart around, above and below the water’s surface, somehow avoiding getting tangled up or drowned. One highlight was a scene of playful buffalo fighting, with lots of splashing and charging.
The play is accompanied by musicians on traditional instruments, and two principal female singers. The performance included Van singing (songs in praise of deities) derived from the traditional Vietnamese worship of the Holy Mother and Quan Ho singing (like a call and response between men and women), which comes from some of the provinces north of Hanoi. The last scene is the “Carp Transformed into Dragon,” said to relate to the 1000-year-old legend of Emperor Ly Thai To, the one who transferred the ancient capital from Ninh Binh to Hanoi in the 11th century. It is said when he arrived in Hanoi, he saw a golden dragon in the clouds, so he named the new capital Thang Long, which means “soaring dragon.” Thang Long is still often referred to, and is the name of a tasty local beer!
A too-big album can be viewed here. We kept snapping photos of street scenes and really need to go back and do some thinning out. Until then, the weeding is up to you.
Cat Ba Island and Halong Bay
Halong Bay is for many travelers the #1 must-see destination in Vietnam. With jagged limestone peaks that rise from the blue-green waters of Tonkin Bay and countless spiky rock islands with hidden grottoes and swooping birds dotting the horizon as far as the eye can see, it’s truly unique. After a couple of frustrating days trying to find a reasonable tour from Halong City, we decided to forego sleeping on one of the hundreds of tourist junks jammed with people who’d booked from Hanoi, and go straight to Cat Ba Island, the only inhabited island in the bay. Since we were starting from Halong City, the boat trip to Cat Ba would pass through the prettiest parts of the bay. As luck would have it, we were able to book passage on one of the boats that would make a couple of stops for its overnight passengers before dropping us on Cat Ba. It seemed like the best of both worlds.
At one spot everyone got out to walk up to one of the famous caves. At another, we paddled a kayak, exploring little inlets and a small waterfall. The last stop was at a floating village where residents farmed fish and prawns in addition to rowing tourists around. Even through the fog (or maybe partly because of it) Halong Bay was pretty magical.
Cat Ba was just what we needed, laidback and natural. It was low season for beachgoers, so we got a good rate on a room and chilled out for a few days. Half of the island is a natural park, with plenty of opportunities for trekking and exploring. We rented a motorbike several days in a row, and were able to see just about every corner of the island.
One interesting spot is Hospital Cave, used as a secret hideout and hospital during the war. The guide there explained how it was built and led us through chambers used as meeting rooms, operating rooms and recovery areas. The hospital consisted of three levels, with a quick escape route for people on the third floor to jump into, splashing down into a tank of water on the first floor next to the emergency exit. Some amazing ingenuity went into the building of the structure, and seeing (or not seeing) it from the outside was just as remarkable.
Views from the old fort looked similar to those from the middle of Halong Bay, but with a better view, from above. There are a number of paths connecting the various lookouts, with large anti-aircraft and long-range artillery pieces, bunkers and a helicopter landing pad, along with a small café.
The beaches of Cat Co 1, 2, and 3 are scenic, and there is a walking trail above that connects two of them. A third section seems to be slated for reconstruction. There was only one hearty soul braving the cold water while we were there, but it seemed like it would be a very popular spot in summer. We spent hours sitting above the bays watching the fishing boats coming and going from the harbor.
Seafood restaurants abound on the island, with a variety of shellfish, eels, horseshoe and other crabs, fish and squid on the menu. One option is to be rowed out to one of the floating restaurants in the harbor, though there are plenty of choices on the main strip that faces it as well. Donny had a birthday dinner of crab in chili sauce, fried squid, spring rolls and cold beer. Mmm.
Paddling Upstream
Sometimes travel is a struggle. Everyone suffers moments of discouragement and frustration, times when everything seems to be working against you. But it’s often these times that turn out to be the most memorable, when you learn something about yourself while trying to see the world from someone else’s perspective. Ninh Binh was supposed to be a fun, interesting alternate route, a detour from the typical tourist trail. While it did give us a glimpse of a more “real” Vietnam, we found we had to look pretty hard for it. We arrived early, on the overnight train from Hue, the names of three hotel possibilities in hand, prepared for the train station touts to try and reel us into their transportation or hotel so they could earn their commission. Sure enough, they were out in full force. The 8-10 tourists who got off at the station were immediately surrounded by young men wielding business cards for nearby hotels. Several were wearing suits, and with their slicked-back hair and lanky frames looked rather like gangsters. We took the opportunity to sneak around them and make a beeline for what we thought should be the road to the main part of town.
The trouble with most train and bus stations (airports are even worse) is their distance from town center. This leaves travelers unfamiliar with the way things work at the mercy of those who do. Unfortunately, unless you have arrived in a city with mass transit that’s easy to navigate, there will always be those who will take advantage of your disorientation. Every so often a taxi or motorbike would pull up with the classic “Where you go?” When you clearly are heading for lodging, this is often followed up by the driver knowing the cheapest, cleanest, best place. Wherever you might answer either burned down, are crooks, or is just plain a “bad place.” Experience has shown that the best response is saying you already have a prepaid reservation. When walking without a backpack and the corresponding excuse I also like to switch into Spanish and just pretend I don’t understand. On the other hand, in a pinch these guys can be life-savers, and just because they are getting a kickback doesn’t mean they won’t take you to a decent place.
Our strategy generally is to do as much research as possible before arriving, familiarize ourselves with the map so we don’t have to pull it out every block and have at least three places to aim for. After 45 minutes or so of wandering with our packs, we ended up staying at our second choice, mostly due to sheer exhaustion (we never found the first). The hotel was adequately clean, but from the time we entered, management seemed only interested in selling us one of their tours of the area. The only advice they gave was related to in-house services, the only restaurant recommendation for the one they ran. They charged twice as much as we were used to for bicycles barely held together by tape and wires. Our opting out of a room rate that included breakfast had already made us pariahs. We played the game and did our best to keep the peace by having our beers there in the evening and using them to book a bus to the next town, once we determined the price was about the same.
Not having breakfast included forced us out onto the street to fend for ourselves. It can be intimidating to march into a place filled with locals, no menu in sight, and imagine you’ll be able to eat. Waitstaff, if there are any, get flustered and forget about asking any questions. One good thing in Vietnam is the abundance of one-dish shops. Pho, the famous noodle soup, is pretty easy, so we chose one of those and made it our every-morning stop for a steaming bowl of beef noodles with chili sauce, leafy greens and lime.
Our next issue was getting around. Opting out of the hotel’s group tours, we wanted to be independent, having heard the main sights were in cycling distance.Where in other cities there would have been at least a couple of choices, we couldn’t find a place to rent us a bike anywhere. When we finally found a place that looked like a travel agency, we left after waiting almost an hour for someone to “be right back.” In the end we did find someone willing to rent us decent bicycles without demanding a $200 deposit and holding a passport, and stuck with them for the next few days. The lady who ran the shop didn’t speak much English, but she compensated for a lack of vocabulary with lots of smiles and some earnest pointing at the map.
The city of Ninh Binh was traffic and exhaust-choked, with lots of construction creating even more dust and debris. Once you get out of the city, however, the landscape is gorgeous. It reminded us a bit of southern China, with towering limestone peaks and small-scale farming dominated by bright, green rice paddies. We got lost repeatedly, drawing lots of stares in the winding, narrow alleys of nearby villages. Sleepy-eyed water buffalo gazed up at us from their endless grazing. People rode by on bicycles, nodding as they passed. A man with a crate full of piglets on the back of his motorbike stopped in the middle of the road to chat with a friend. Uniformed school kids giggled and said hello. Ladies sat in tiny plastic chairs by the roadside, inviting us in to try the local specialty, goat.
The biggest tourist draw in the surrounding area is being rowed along the Tam Coc River, past some of this amazing scenery. The rowers all line up at the river’s edge, and after buying a ticket someone puts you in a boat. Our rower was a middle aged guy who, like most of the boatmen and women, paddle much of the time using their feet. It’s a pretty impressive talent and we wondered if they all didn’t have some ripped abs to show for it. Passing through some caves, and seeing people inspecting their nets or wading in the river was interesting, but there were a few things that took some charm away from the trip: pressure to buy snacks from the ladies in their boats at the end of the route before the boat would turn around and head back (higher pressure than usual using guilt to get us to buy a can of juice at 5 times the normal price for our hard-working rower); more pressure to buy embroidery from the rower himself, and to give a good tip; and extreme persistence from someone who had snapped a photo of us during the journey to buy the printout.
The mountain-top pagoda/shrines we climbed to near Bich Dong cave was a perfect, peaceful place to get away from it all. The views were spectacular. The only other people we saw were a young couple who seemed to be trying to hide away from the world themselves. Another day we visited the famous tombs of King Dinh Tien and King Le Dai Hanh at Hoa Lu, which was Vietnam’s capital for a short time. There are a number of structures and artifacts on the grounds to explore, and an incredible amount of souvenirs and snacks for sale if you’re so inclined.
Yet another day of cycling brought us to what looked like a huge construction site, with mountains of dirt and tiles and bricks piled up everywhere. The grounds of the pagoda we were looking for seemed to have been completely dismantled for reconstruction, but the landscapes and scenes of daily life we encountered on our bike rides more than made up for the rest of Ninh Binh’s many challenges.
2011 Photo Roundup
The end of 2011 marked our 244th day since leaving home. We’ve taken well over 8000 pictures with our small point and shoot. Some have been good, others not so much. These photos are some of our favorites from our travels in 2011. It was very difficult to narrow down and agree on the highlights, so there are a few from each country visited. Enjoy!
Japan
With Japan’s long history and contrast between ancient and modern it’s a wonderful place for anyone to visit.
Bridge: Miyajima, Japan
Cormorant Fisherman: Gifu, Japan
Jizo Statue: Tokyo, Japan
South Korea
Knowing less about South Korea than either Japan or China made for some wonderful surprises. A rich, colorful culture and curious, helpful people made our visit here one of true discovery.
N Seoul Tower: Seoul, South Korea
Flowers: Gyeongju, South Korea
Fish Heads: Sokcho, South Korea
China
Size and numbers, that’s China. Too big to possibly ever know then whole country and more people than imaginable. With thousands of years of history, plenty still visible, China has so much to offer. We spent two months and barely scratched the surface.
D at The Great Wall: Beijing,China
Niches of Buddhas: Shanghai, China
Red Yao Woman at Dragon's Backbone Rice Terraces: Longsheng, China
Rice Paddy Sunset: Yangshou, China
Monastery: Tagong, China
Hong Kong
Ancient Chinese culture alive beside the cutting edge 21st century world make Hong Kong an exciting place to visit as well as a true foodie paradise.
Goldfish at Goldfish Market: Kowloon, Hong Kong
Thailand
Using Bangkok as our hub for exploring SE Asia turned out to be an excellent idea. We’ve entered and exited three times at this point, but still look forward to the chance to explore even more of the country.
Wat Traimit: Bangkok, Thailand
Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho: Bangkok, Thailand
Laos
Lush, laid-back Laos. A must visit for anyone traveling through the area. With its impossible greens, deep blues and bright oranges there are endless photo opportunities.
Hilltop Shrine: Luang Namtha, Laos
Monk Robes: Luang Prabang, Laos
Mahout: Luang Prabang, Laos
Alms Bowl: Luang Prabang, Laos
Indonesia
It seems each island in Indonesia could almost be its own county. With different people, customs and foods island hopping is all the more rewarding, and with a reported 17,000 islands that could keep you busy for quite some time!
Sunset: Labuanbajo, Indonesia
Offering: Ubud, Indonesia
Cyclo Driver: Yogyakarta, Indonesia
Bordodubur: Yogyakarta, Indonesia
Singapore
Ultra modern and clean Singapore has something for all. From shopping to beaches to al fresco dining you can do it here. Its diverse mix of people, and the foods that result make it a truly tasty city.
Kampong Glam : Singapore
Malaysia
As with most extended trips, plans get modified as you go. Malaysia was a casualty of this unfortunate reality as we only had enough time to visit it’s capital Kuala Lumpur. We will use it as an excuse to return I’m sure!
Macaque at Batu Cave: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Cambodia
Beautiful in every way Cambodia was endlessly enjoyable. Traveling slow here is the way to go. With some of the friendliest people on Earth, getting out in the countryside truly humbles the spirit.
Bas Relief at Angkor Archaeological Park: Siem Reap, Cambodia
T at Prasat Pre Rup: Siem Reap, Cambodia
Monk at Prasat Pre Rup: Siem Reap, Cambodia
Floating Village: Tonle Sap Lake, Cambodia
Mekong Sunset: Kratie, Cambodia
Vietnam
Two wheel mania and a food obsession makes Vietnam a travelers dream. Just crossing the street can be an adventure!
Hawker: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
A Narrow, Moss-Covered Alley: Hoi An, Vietnam
Roast Duck: Hanoi, Vietnam
